We also design supply and return copper pipes for condensers serving cooling towers, including industrial cooling towers. Our design services include domestic cold water and hot water supply pipes including hot water return lines. New York Engineers designs copper pipe systems for a plethora of applications encompassing residential, commercial and industrial uses. Your building, construction or equipment will certainly benefit from copper pipes creating a resilient water supply system. Copper pipes never let you down and last for a lifetime with the least maintenance.Įveryone in the MEP industry can vouch for the superiority of copper over other materials without a second thought. Copper is durable, corrosion-resistant and reliable, making it ideal for a wide range of applications. It's not surprising that copper has emerged as the preferred material. Copper has been used for centuries to distribute water- almost for 4,000 years! The Egyptians used it, the Romans used it, and now the whole world uses copper pipes since the 1940s. When pipes are so important, it goes without saying that you would want high performance and reliable pipes for your home or building.Īmong all types of pipes used in the industry, copper pipes have turned out to be the top choice. Without pipes, the water will never reach where it's supposed to, making whole systems fail. If anything, there can be too much hot water, but certainly enough to afford one a comfortable shower even in the 'dead of Winter! This instruct-able has given me the idea of building such a heat exchanger into the floor of the next shower I build such that my very hot water might flow through that element enroute to the mixing valve and shower head, Hanging on a wall invites a cleaning task - but laying it out on the shower floor and pouring clear / translucent resin over the affair might do.Pipes are indispensable parts of various mechanical, plumbing, heating, cooling and water supply systems. Setting the baseboard heater to seventy-two, say and running the mist-head sprayer inside the shower stall for a few minutes takes the chill off the room and the (tiled) shower enclosure. The digital thermostat for the BB Heater is located on the wall across the room - near the shower 'door' (actually two curtains - one 'inside the shower and the other across the opening. I have a window in this bath and a BASEBOARD HEATER mounted near the floor below that window (and a towel bar). We have a remote (X-10) switch that allows us to turn it on just before taking a shower if necessary. It is also well insulated as are all the copper and PEX pipes. I set our water heater to SCALD but only run it twice a day for about 15 minutes at a time. I use a fine hand-held ("MISTING" spray head that mounts on the shower head connection when not being held in hand. I have a well-insulated bathroom and an "enclosed" shower stall. Use this method to attach all the bits together. If you are unsure about this part, practice first to get the hang of it before you do it on the final piece. Take care not to use too much as you want it to be neat and there is no need for a water tight fitting here. The expansion and heat will suck the solder into the fitting and form the connection. The only difference when soldering these is that you are going to use a thread of solder, so as you are holding the blow torch to the fitting, have the end of the solder thread touching the part you want to attach. When connecting the T fittings and supporting pipes (the bits with no water flow), be sure to do these systematically as you will need the space to attach them, don't do the whole shape first as then you will struggle to fit them in. Once this is done, wrap the wet flannel around the fitting to cool it, taking care not to burn yourself.Be sure the solder has risen the whole way around the fitting.Start up the blow torch and hold it on the band of solder inside the fitting, move it around the fitting to the point where the solder just starts to bubble up - remember not to allow the solder to escape outside of the fitting, you want all of it inside.Support the pipe with a clamp so the corner is away from any surface and you are able to get all the way around.Be sure to keep the flux neat too as solder will flow wherever flux is. Using a small art brush, coat the end of the pipe and inside the corner with some flux.Sand the pipe end and the inside of the corner with the cloth sandpaper.As the pipe does not feed all the way through the T fitting I needed to cut away half of the long top part so the pipe rested onto it - you can see what I mean in the image.įind a starting point and solder a corner to a length of pipe as follows: You are now ready to start cutting all your pieces and lay them loosely on the paper.
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